I recently returned from a trip to Lisbon, where I had some of the best pastry. There was literally a pastelaria (pastry shop) on every corner, and no matter what I tried, it was all delicious.




However, my absolute favorites were pasteis de nata. These are crisp puff pastry shells filled with a heavenly soft custard that is faintly reminiscent of vanilla. The little pastries are eaten straight at the counter, as is tradition there. Along with their order, customers are handed powdered sugar and cinnamon, which are sprinkled over the tarts.

The most famous place to eat pasteis de nata in Lisbon is at Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, which is a sprawling cafe just outside the city in Belem. The place churns out thousands of pasteis de nata every day, and their recipe is top secret. Don’t expect to walk in and get right down to business though – the place is hugely popular with tourists, and there is always a line.

I was anxious to try them, but I actually didn’t like them. The shell was too thin, and the filling too soft and eggy for me. My favorite pasteis de nata came from Casa Brasileira in Baixa, an old neighborhood in downtown Lisbon. Everything was just right about them, and the perfect contrast between the crisp shell and the creamy filling made me come back to this pastelaria way too many times during my trip. I ate copious amounts of their pasteis de nata, and I would fly to Lisbon just for an order of them! In the meantime, I’m going to do the next best thing, and try baking them myself.

Pastelaria Casa Brasileira
Rua Augusta, 267-269
Lisbon, Portugal

Antiga Confeitaria de Belem
Rua de Belem, 84-92
Belem, Portugal
www.pasteisdebelem.pt